The slots that receive the side pieces are then widened. The double line serves as a corridor for the band saw blade. The elements are placed on a rigid plywood or straight hardwood platform clamped in cantilevered fashion off the edge of the worktable. I register the heel block to the 5th line (remember that if you are trimming the steel string heel block with a table saw, you will have one more line 1/8 inch from the end of the planned tenon- see page 48). So here it is: new and improved. If you exit slowly, there will be minimum chip-out where you exit the headblock, and any chip out will be covered by the bolt's large head. This rarely happened at the Gurian shop: we all learned how to install it without problems. An offset of one to two sixty-fourths of an inch is correct: much more and the pin simply refuses to enter the tenon or, if it does, mayhem can ensue: the neck shaft can be drawn forcibly away from the fingerboard. The steel string is set up so that the head stock is 7 inches long. Too many times, I've done so, and later found someone had already thought of it, and had been doing it for years. My guitar-making textbook was first published in 1985, and has gone into eight editions without a major revision. Make sure your lines are perfectly square to the sides of the shaft. One more point: If you fear your customers might mistake the bolt heads for a truss rod adjusters and start to crank them down, warn them or inlay the bolt head and lightly tack a "cap" of matching wood over them to keep them from prying eyes. So if you do a vector diagram of the forces acting on the joint, you'll find that most of the stress is compression of the neck INTO the guitar, and only a minor portion is tension actually acting on the bolt and the wood surrounding the dowel. Although you may stroke the angle oblique to the billet's centerline, the last several strokes on the abrasive surface should be parallel to it. Next, I band saw at the slanted lines just behind the line that represents the 12th fret. You do not want to be dialing in clamps while the glue is drying! For us, the tapered dovetail is unnecessarily complex, requires endless fussing to get it to fit properly and as well, to disassemble it for resetting. An believe me, he is more than skillful! This seemed like a splendid idea, that could update my technique easily. The joint's guitar counterpart requires much greater finesse and precision. I got mine from a place called Enco. Drill the holes for the bolt over-size so the system will accommodate misalignment (in the headblock, 3/8"; in the end of the tenon, 5/16") . The remove the clamp, slip the fingerboard end caul and upper face-brace caul in place and clamp the fingerboard end down as described in the book text. My work (and work in collaboration with my long-time shop partner. The joint is basically a straight-sided mortise and tenon, with the mortise cut out of the headblock inside the body and the tenon cut into the heel block on the neck. So here we have a joint I like and can recommend--AND have come to use, exclusively, myself. This new hardware-based neck joint system relies on a common brass hardware-store fastener called, variously, a "barrel and bolt" , "KD (for knockdown) fastener," or "connector bolt and dowel.". My method of laying up the classic guitar neckblank and then slotting and partially shaping New Cumpiano neck joint. The photo above shows neck tenon with barrels inserted and bolts threaded into them through holes in the end of the tenon. You can see the top neck bolt in the center, going into the tenon where it screws into a barrel nut. Here is a top view of the neck mounted to the neck block. Here are the parts for the new neck block. The barrel bolt joint matches these characteristics. Over the years, I've received quite a bit of mail from amateur builders struggling with the pinned mortise and tenon neck-joint system detailed therein. The 7.5 measurement is the longer of the two edges seen above. Here is the steel string shaft marked appropriately. For those purists who maintain that hardware- based joints are untested Johnny-come-latelies, allow me to refer you to Renaissance lutes which often had a large, single wood screw holding the necks on. That will get cleaned up or covered as you continue. Then I sat on the headstock to see if I could make fail. 38220) on the web. The jig is made so that you can secure everything to avoid slippage. Heavens, no! Maker of fine artisanal guitars for nearly a half-century, Over the last four decades, I've made several hundred guitars, individually, for serious amateurs, teachers and performers.
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